Debating what-not-to-do in Istanbul

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By ANASTASIA ASHMAN

Matador network published  “what not to do in Istanbul.” Suggestions to avoid crowds, tourist traps, deal with time constraints and low budgets, partake in local customs. It can be an overwhelming city and a list of what not to do is very helpful.

After seven years in this surprising megalopolis I agreed with very few of the suggestions.

I rarely contribute travel pieces anymore — focusing more on cultural identity work and pursuing hybrid entertainment — but since the tourism season approaches here are the points I see differently:

Ø   *Skip Dolmabahçe*. (It’s a 19th century European-style palace and if you’ve ever seen one of those, this won’t be news). No exhibits and you can’t wander by yourself.

√   *Don’t skip Topkapı Palace* and don’t skip the separately ticketed harem tour. (Just go early after a big breakfast like I suggest here). It’s worth seeing the treasury, and the tiled kiosks at the far end of the compound, as well as the kitchens. Also you can pop into the stupendous archaeology museum on the grounds.

√   *Do stay in Taksim* if you want to experience a more authentic Turkish scene. Istiklal is perfect for dining, bar-hopping, strolling, people-watching, cafe-sitting. Some hotels are on raucous streets (travel with earplugs), but not all of them. (Sultanahmet may be close to the historic sites but it’s shark-bait touristy, and lifeless at night.) Taksim is on the Metro line, with a funicular that puts you on the tram to Sultanahmet. The most painless commute in town. Plus, the trek back and forth between old town and Beyoğlu, across Galata bridge, is one you’ll enjoy having to make as my walking tour for National Geographic shows.

√   *Do take a Bosphorus cruise*, just not the overpriced tourist traps from the Eminönü dock. Catch a lovely one hour $5 ferry from the landing behind the Ortaköy mosque like I describe here.

Ø   *Skip the Princes Islands* if the reason you’re getting on a boat is for the views and breezes.  The high speed boats that carry you to the Sea of Marmara have scratched plastic windows you can’t see out of, and you’re not allowed on deck.

Ø   *Don’t accept tea* if you don’t want to spend your time with a particular person, or in a particular place. Don’t confuse a tourism sales tactic with the fabled Turkish hospitality. As a traveler in a big city, it’s still your time, and your choice who you drink tea with. If you’re interested in chatting or shopping, fine. If not, politely decline and keep moving. When hawkers in the bazaar and tourism district are unrelenting a clucking of the tongue and upward roll of the eyes is Turkish for “no, and don’t ask me again”. Plus, apple tea is only for tourists. If you aim to drink tea in a traditional manner, ask for normal black tea.

What would you suggest we *not* do in Istanbul, and why?
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Anastasia Ashman is a California-born writer/producer of neoculture entertainment based in Istanbul. This series covers what’s crossing the mind and desk of expat+HAREM’s founder.
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Tagged as: apple tea, archaeology museum, bar-hopping, bazaar, Beyoğlu, body language, Bosphorus, Dolmabahçe, Eminönü, Galata, Galata bridge, Istanbul, Istanbul travel advice, Istiklal, Matador, Matador network, people-watching, Princes Islands, Sea of Marmara, shark bait, Sultanahmet, Taksim, Topkapı Palace, tourism, tourism district, tourism tactics, tourist trap, travel, travel advice, travel service, travel writing, traveler, Turkey, Turkish, Turkish hospitality

  • http://www.expatharem.com/identity-messages/ Anastasia

    Yesss….the Galata bridge restaurants are pretty tacky on the whole. However, the vantage point is unbeatable, right over the water at boat level. I'd say it's still worth a sit-down right before sunset (or later) maybe at one of the nargile bars.

    If you want great fish in the Sultanahmet area, Balikci Sabahattin is one of the best and established way back in 1928 or something.

    Agree, Istanbul needs a week.

  • Katja

    Hi Anastasia,

    we have just spent one fantastic week in Istanbul. Usually we stay at the appartment of my mother-in-law in Avcilar visiting aunts and uncles and cousins and grandmother and grandfather and…, but this time we wanted to be like “normal” tourists because we went there with a Brazilian family who had never been in Istanbul before.
    So we stayed in one of the small but expensive hotels in Sultanahmet, just behind the Blue Mosque. This area is unique and changed a lot since I visited Istanbul for the first time in 1998. We were especially impressed about public transport and how it has improved.

    There are not many things I would recommend NOT to do. Even Dolmabahce is worth a visit, especially if you are interested in how Turkish people still adore Atatürk. But even if you are not interested in visiting the palace, it is always nice to stop there and having a tea directly at the Bosporus.

    If you are travelling with children, Istanbul is the best city to do so. For our girls it was like a big playground with many friendly people, cats and kittens everywhere, Nazar Boncuks for free :) …

    I would recommend NOT to visit the fish restaurants under the new Galata bridge. They are made for tourists. But that is the only thing.

    I love the ride with the public ferryboat to Anadolu Kavagi, staying there, climbing up the hill to the castle, only for the view. It takes you a whole day but I like the Bosporus and would never ever say it is boring.

    So, everybody who is planning a trip to Istanbul should NOT stay only for a weekend. 5 days at least.

    Katja

  • http://annemerritt.blogspot.com/ Anne

    Hi Anastasia,

    I wrote the Matador article “What NOT to do in Istanbul.” I appreciate the way you address the piece on this site, disagreeing with my points in a smart and non-accusative way. We all know that in the anonymity of the blog world, you can get away with a lot more than “I don’t agree.”

    You’re very right about tea; one should not accept it from vendors! I pictured people like the kind neighbours or cafe owners in my neighbourhood of Bakirkoy, offering tea, no strings attached. But you’re right, travellers will encounter more of the former than the latter.

    Of course, the article could have been a whole book, there are so many tips a person could give about this complicated city. Even something as simple as boating on the Bosphorus presents dozens of options for a traveller. I tried to pare down the points to what I thought would be most relevant to Matador’s audience; travellers on a budget, with or without families, who are curious about the cultures of the countries they visit. Of course, they were based largely on my experiences (such as Topkapi being way way overcrowded, at least when I’ve visited).

    I’ve been reading your site for a while and have always enjoyed following your observations. Thanks for agreeing to disagree in such a civil way.

    • http://www.expatharem.com/identity-messages/ Anastasia

      Hey Anne, thanks for dropping by! If there’s one thing I’ve learned living in Istanbul (and Turkey in general) is that we’re all pretty opinionated about the best way to enjoy the place. Locals, repats, expats, longtime foreign residents, travelers passing through. Even Turks abroad. Everyone’s got their favorite spots, ways of doing things, connections. There’s definitely room for all kinds of guidance, although it may be hard to parse for someone visiting the first few times.

      Hope to see you around (here, at Matador, and somewhere in IST)

      P.S. This post was originally a comment on your post, but it never appeared there. Must still be in the spam filter!

  • http://annemerritt.blogspot.com/ Anne

    Hi Anastasia,

    I wrote the Matador article “What NOT to do in Istanbul.” I appreciate the way you address the piece on this site, disagreeing with my points in a smart and non-accusative way. We all know that in the anonymity of the blog world, you can get away with a lot more than “I don’t agree.”

    You’re very right about tea; one should not accept it from vendors! I pictured people like the kind neighbours or cafe owners in my neighbourhood of Bakirkoy, offering tea, no strings attached. But you’re right, travellers will encounter more of the former than the latter.

    Of course, the article could have been a whole book, there are so many tips a person could give about this complicated city. Even something as simple as boating on the Bosphorus presents dozens of options for a traveller. I tried to pare down the points to what I thought would be most relevant to Matador’s audience; travellers on a budget, with or without families, who are curious about the cultures of the countries they visit. Of course, they were based largely on my experiences (such as Topkapi being way way overcrowded, at least when I’ve visited).

    I’ve been reading your site for a while and have always enjoyed following your observations. Thanks for agreeing to disagree in such a civil way.

    • http://www.expatharem.com/identity-messages/ Anastasia

      Hey Anne, thanks for dropping by! If there’s one thing I’ve learned living in Istanbul (and Turkey in general) is that we’re all pretty opinionated about the best way to enjoy the place. Locals, repats, expats, longtime foreign residents, travelers passing through. Even Turks abroad. Everyone’s got their favorite spots, ways of doing things, connections. There’s definitely room for all kinds of guidance, although it may be hard to parse for someone visiting the first few times.

      Hope to see you around (here, at Matador, and somewhere in IST)

      P.S. This post was originally a comment on your post, but it never appeared there. Must still be in the spam filter!

  • Maureen Basedow

    Don’t know if it is still routed this way, but if it’s the all-the-way-to-the-Black Sea vapur you mean by the $5 tour – I have never been so bored in my life as on that one. There just isn’t that much to see past the second bridge, unless you are really into concrete apartment buildings — and such a long, long, slow way to go with lots of stops along the way to see it. Emininou-Kadikoy, or any of the ones that start circling back around Anadoluhisar are maybe better choices. My issue with Istiklal being off the “don’t bother” list is that, quite frankly, there are lots of places in the world like Istiklal Caddesi, and next to none like Sultanahmet. If you’re only in Istanbul for a few days, or even a few weeks, why bother? Sultanahmet is indeed quiet enough at night, it is not that hard to get rid of the touts (I’m sure we’ve all been places where it’s a lot harder), and there are a few good restaurants (or were) “up the block” in Lale. Stay in SA and you get the uniqueness, plus a good night’s sleep, plus a taksi if you want to go somewhere else for a meal. I’ll also add to the shout-out for cute iskele/restaurant areas on the Asian side – like Cengelkoy, which I would bet has changed a lot since I used to meet my husband there for lunch 15 years ago. Personally, I like walking the (Theodosian) wall, combining it with Eyup and Cariye Cami (Chora), but that’s not for everyone and can require things like taking your sunglasses off.

    • http://www.expatharem.com/identity-messages/ Anastasia M. Ashman

      Hi Maureen! Thanks for your suggestions. The boat tour I mean is just between the two bridges and lasts an hour. I’d agree going up to the Black Sea is long and featureless. Definitely a visit to an Asian side village for a meal and a stroll.

  • Maureen Basedow

    Don’t know if it is still routed this way, but if it’s the all-the-way-to-the-Black Sea vapur you mean by the $5 tour – I have never been so bored in my life as on that one. There just isn’t that much to see past the second bridge, unless you are really into concrete apartment buildings — and such a long, long, slow way to go with lots of stops along the way to see it. Emininou-Kadikoy, or any of the ones that start circling back around Anadoluhisar are maybe better choices. My issue with Istiklal being off the “don’t bother” list is that, quite frankly, there are lots of places in the world like Istiklal Caddesi, and next to none like Sultanahmet. If you’re only in Istanbul for a few days, or even a few weeks, why bother? Sultanahmet is indeed quiet enough at night, it is not that hard to get rid of the touts (I’m sure we’ve all been places where it’s a lot harder), and there are a few good restaurants (or were) “up the block” in Lale. Stay in SA and you get the uniqueness, plus a good night’s sleep, plus a taksi if you want to go somewhere else for a meal. I’ll also add to the shout-out for cute iskele/restaurant areas on the Asian side – like Cengelkoy, which I would bet has changed a lot since I used to meet my husband there for lunch 15 years ago. Personally, I like walking the (Theodosian) wall, combining it with Eyup and Cariye Cami (Chora), but that’s not for everyone and can require things like taking your sunglasses off.

    • http://www.expatharem.com/identity-messages/ Anastasia

      Hi Maureen! Thanks for your suggestions. The boat tour I mean is just between the two bridges and lasts an hour. I’d agree going up to the Black Sea is long and featureless. Definitely a visit to an Asian side village for a meal and a stroll.

  • http://armenianodar.wordpress.com Myrthe

    Thanks for your post, Anastasia, and for everyone for their comments! Very timely for me as I’ll be visiting Istanbul for a week this coming week. I’m looking forward to it so much and I’m having fun with the preparations already.

    • http://www.expatharem.com/identity-messages/ Anastasia M. Ashman

      Welcome to Istanbul Myrthe! Check in and let us know what (if anything) makes your list of things not-to-do-Istanbul. :-)

  • http://armenianodar.wordpress.com Myrthe

    Thanks for your post, Anastasia, and for everyone for their comments! Very timely for me as I’ll be visiting Istanbul for a week this coming week. I’m looking forward to it so much and I’m having fun with the preparations already.

    • http://www.expatharem.com/identity-messages/ Anastasia

      Welcome to Istanbul Myrthe! Check in and let us know what (if anything) makes your list of things not-to-do-Istanbul. :-)

  • Briget

    The Chora Church is tiny but magnificent. Do NOT go to the Ahidra synagogue, as it is not much to see (even though the bima is unusual). I have never met such rude people in my life as there. I felt hostility in Fatih even though I was dressed conservatively, but others say they haven’t? There are jewels everywhere, if you are curious enough and not shy. A delapitated building on the Asian side caught my eye, and upon investigation, I learned the people there make wicker furniture by hand. The owner demonstrated to me the entire process from beginning to end. He’d been doing it since he was 14 years old and he is probably 50 now. I found it absolutely fascinating!

    • http://www.expatharem.com/identity-messages/ Anastasia M. Ashman

      Ah yes, Fatih. An outfit that passes muster in Taksim can draw harassment in Fatih, I have witnessed. It’s another world.

      Good to hear about the wicker furniture factory!

  • Briget

    The Chora Church is tiny but magnificent. Do NOT go to the Ahidra synagogue, as it is not much to see (even though the bima is unusual). I have never met such rude people in my life as there. I felt hostility in Fatih even though I was dressed conservatively, but others say they haven’t? There are jewels everywhere, if you are curious enough and not shy. A delapitated building on the Asian side caught my eye, and upon investigation, I learned the people there make wicker furniture by hand. The owner demonstrated to me the entire process from beginning to end. He’d been doing it since he was 14 years old and he is probably 50 now. I found it absolutely fascinating!

    • http://www.expatharem.com/identity-messages/ Anastasia

      Ah yes, Fatih. An outfit that passes muster in Taksim can draw harassment in Fatih, I have witnessed. It’s another world.

      Good to hear about the wicker furniture factory!

  • Katie

    I agree with most of what was said here, except about the Princes’ Islands. If you board a ferry from Bostanci on the Asian side, there are the traditional ferries where you CAN sit outside and feed simit to the waiting seagulls. Most of the islands also have dolmus-ferries that are completely open air heading back to Bostanci. As for the islands themselves, March and April are the best times to go, no tourists and the islands are abloom with yellow mimosa. Buyukada is standard, but I like Heybeliada and the other islands better. A lot more natural, and I like to hear all of the old languages (Rum, Armenian, Ladino) that are mainly spoken on Heybeliada. Since there aren’t so many tourisits, there are less horse tours and so the smell is definitely better than the summer.
    I would add to the list: Don’t be afraid of the Asian side. There are lots of nice places to see, and a lot less tourists and tourist traps. Eat a nice, affordable, and unique dinner at Ciya in Kadikoy, http://www.ciya.com.tr, breakfast in Cengelkoy, and check out the unique character of Kuzguncuk.

    • http://www.expatharem.com/identity-messages/ Anastasia M. Ashman

      Yay, new mother and Expat Harem original contributor Katie Belliel makes an appearance! Thanks for weighing in….

      Great to know about the Bostanci-based ferries, and good tips about early season visits and less-popular island and Asian-side destinations.

      For people interested in Kuzguncuk, here’s a walking tour.

  • Katie

    I agree with most of what was said here, except about the Princes’ Islands. If you board a ferry from Bostanci on the Asian side, there are the traditional ferries where you CAN sit outside and feed simit to the waiting seagulls. Most of the islands also have dolmus-ferries that are completely open air heading back to Bostanci. As for the islands themselves, March and April are the best times to go, no tourists and the islands are abloom with yellow mimosa. Buyukada is standard, but I like Heybeliada and the other islands better. A lot more natural, and I like to hear all of the old languages (Rum, Armenian, Ladino) that are mainly spoken on Heybeliada. Since there aren’t so many tourisits, there are less horse tours and so the smell is definitely better than the summer.
    I would add to the list: Don’t be afraid of the Asian side. There are lots of nice places to see, and a lot less tourists and tourist traps. Eat a nice, affordable, and unique dinner at Ciya in Kadikoy, http://www.ciya.com.tr, breakfast in Cengelkoy, and check out the unique character of Kuzguncuk.

    • http://www.expatharem.com/identity-messages/ Anastasia

      Yay, new mother and Expat Harem original contributor Katie Belliel makes an appearance! Thanks for weighing in….

      Great to know about the Bostanci-based ferries, and good tips about early season visits and less-popular island and Asian-side destinations.

      For people interested in Kuzguncuk, here’s a walking tour.

  • http://www.bazaarbayar.blogspot.com Catherine

    If I could ban apple tea from Turkey, I would! I’ve told countless visitors to avoid it and would not serve it in our cafe, but still got requests all the time. I’d replace it with adacay (a type of sage tea) – an amazing cure for cold symptoms.

    I happen to love staying in Sultanahmet (and will be living there soon) but it does cater to the budget back-packing crowd night. I personally love how deserted it is after the tour buses are gone though – if you firmly ward off the touts.

    If you don’t get out on the Bosphorus while in Istanbul, you haven’t been there. And yes, take the commuter ferries and mingling with the locals. There’s nothing like bouncing back and forth all the way up to the Black Sea and back to learn about daily life in the city. But my favorite ride is still from Harem on the Asian side across to Eminonu in the Old City at sunrise, after one of those overnight bus rides from the Aegean region. A magical experience that will wake you right up!

    Don’t be shy about talking to Turks you meet about touchy subjects like religion and politics. The art of conversation, especially when people have opposing views, is a vibrant pastime as long as everyone remains respectful. Even carpet sellers can be an amazing source of stories about the real Turkey – the sharks will not be willing to talk very long if you’re not “bait”, but the genuine guys can be quite entertaining!

    • http://www.expatharem.com/identity-messages/ Anastasia M. Ashman

      Thanks Catherine. The sunrise commute sounds fascinating!

      The commuter ferry to Kadikoy from any European dock will not only afford that great view of the old peninsula, but also put you close to Kadikoy’s street market district, which is fun to walk through. I’ve had visitors say it was the best $1 they ever spent.

      Fun idea to separate the wheat from the chaff in carpet sellers…talk politics and religion!

  • http://www.bazaarbayar.blogspot.com Catherine Bayar

    If I could ban apple tea from Turkey, I would! I’ve told countless visitors to avoid it and would not serve it in our cafe, but still got requests all the time. I’d replace it with adacay (a type of sage tea) – an amazing cure for cold symptoms.

    I happen to love staying in Sultanahmet (and will be living there soon) but it does cater to the budget back-packing crowd night. I personally love how deserted it is after the tour buses are gone though – if you firmly ward off the touts.

    If you don’t get out on the Bosphorus while in Istanbul, you haven’t been there. And yes, take the commuter ferries and mingling with the locals. There’s nothing like bouncing back and forth all the way up to the Black Sea and back to learn about daily life in the city. But my favorite ride is still from Harem on the Asian side across to Eminonu in the Old City at sunrise, after one of those overnight bus rides from the Aegean region. A magical experience that will wake you right up!

    Don’t be shy about talking to Turks you meet about touchy subjects like religion and politics. The art of conversation, especially when people have opposing views, is a vibrant pastime as long as everyone remains respectful. Even carpet sellers can be an amazing source of stories about the real Turkey – the sharks will not be willing to talk very long if you’re not “bait”, but the genuine guys can be quite entertaining!

    • http://www.expatharem.com/identity-messages/ Anastasia

      Thanks Catherine. The sunrise commute sounds fascinating!

      The commuter ferry to Kadikoy from any European dock will not only afford that great view of the old peninsula, but also put you close to Kadikoy’s street market district, which is fun to walk through. I’ve had visitors say it was the best $1 they ever spent.

      Fun idea to separate the wheat from the chaff in carpet sellers…talk politics and religion!

  • Monika

    I thoroughly enjoyed the the historical tour and fantastical beauty of Topkapi Palace, including the harem. Coming from the West, there are few national treasure to compare to the splendor of the Turks.

    I happen to like riding ferries and boats on native waters. I have been on poorly kept boats with scratched plastic windows and no outside access during the ride. If there is a way to determine whether you’re going to be cooped up in an airless dipping and swaying boat or relaxing on an outside access ferry, I suggest looking into it before boarding.

    I found the genuine welcome I received from the Turks I met in taxis, restaurants, shopping areas, hair-stylists, and other places to be a pleasant change from the snotty attitudes I experienced in other famous cities that attract tourists.

    I agree! Istiklal is a must visit place, and YOU choose who you wish to spend time with.

    Thanks Anastasia for being my guide in Turkey (and other places!), and I look forward to my next visit.

    • http://www.expatharem.com/identity-messages/ Anastasia M. Ashman

      Looking forward to your upcoming visit Monika, and digging deeper into Istanbul with you…..like the Levantine antiques mart Horhor and checking out the Ottoman party costumes and ostrich feather fans at Turkey’s first private museum!

  • Monika

    I thoroughly enjoyed the the historical tour and fantastical beauty of Topkapi Palace, including the harem. Coming from the West, there are few national treasure to compare to the splendor of the Turks.

    I happen to like riding ferries and boats on native waters. I have been on poorly kept boats with scratched plastic windows and no outside access during the ride. If there is a way to determine whether you’re going to be cooped up in an airless dipping and swaying boat or relaxing on an outside access ferry, I suggest looking into it before boarding.

    I found the genuine welcome I received from the Turks I met in taxis, restaurants, shopping areas, hair-stylists, and other places to be a pleasant change from the snotty attitudes I experienced in other famous cities that attract tourists.

    I agree! Istiklal is a must visit place, and YOU choose who you wish to spend time with.

    Thanks Anastasia for being my guide in Turkey (and other places!), and I look forward to my next visit.

    • http://www.expatharem.com/identity-messages/ Anastasia

      Looking forward to your upcoming visit Monika, and digging deeper into Istanbul with you…..like the Levantine antiques mart Horhor and checking out the Ottoman party costumes and ostrich feather fans at Turkey’s first private museum!

  • http://maiden-voyage-travel.com Emily @ Maiden Voyage

    Thanks so much for linking to my post! I agree with you on most counts. I think the Bosphorous tour was definitely worth it, and I wish I had stayed in Taksim (we stayed in Sultanahmet and was definitely far too quiet at night, though wonderfully close to Blue Mosque and Ayasofia).

    I wasn’t a big fan of Topkapi Place — while the view of the Bosphorus was beautiful, I was quite bored and thought it was too expensive. Two of my favorite experiences while there were going to a hammam and visiting the spice market. I wasn’t a huge fan of the grand bazaar, and definitely made the mistake of accepting tea a few times (though it is SO tasty!).

    I didn’t make it out to Princes Island, and I felt a bit regretful about it, but I’m glad to hear that it wasn’t a bad decision!

    • http://www.expatharem.com/identity-messages/ Anastasia M. Ashman

      Hey Emily, good to see you here. Absolutely, taking a hamam and shopping at or around the Spice Bazaar, recommended!

      I’d say the time especially not to go to the Princes Islands (besides off-season, my sister cut short her stay after being booked into an un-pre-heated stone cold room with 2 young kids!) is late summer. Horse-drawn carriages *sound great* but the reality is that months of horse urine on unwashed streets is overpowering. My nose burned for days after an August visit to Buyukada.

  • http://maiden-voyage-travel.com Emily @ Maiden Voyage

    Thanks so much for linking to my post! I agree with you on most counts. I think the Bosphorous tour was definitely worth it, and I wish I had stayed in Taksim (we stayed in Sultanahmet and was definitely far too quiet at night, though wonderfully close to Blue Mosque and Ayasofia).

    I wasn’t a big fan of Topkapi Place — while the view of the Bosphorus was beautiful, I was quite bored and thought it was too expensive. Two of my favorite experiences while there were going to a hammam and visiting the spice market. I wasn’t a huge fan of the grand bazaar, and definitely made the mistake of accepting tea a few times (though it is SO tasty!).

    I didn’t make it out to Princes Island, and I felt a bit regretful about it, but I’m glad to hear that it wasn’t a bad decision!

    • http://www.expatharem.com/identity-messages/ Anastasia

      Hey Emily, good to see you here. Absolutely, taking a hamam and shopping at or around the Spice Bazaar, recommended!

      I’d say the time especially not to go to the Princes Islands (besides off-season, my sister cut short her stay after being booked into an un-pre-heated stone cold room with 2 young kids!) is late summer. Horse-drawn carriages *sound great* but the reality is that months of horse urine on unwashed streets is overpowering. My nose burned for days after an August visit to Buyukada.

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